Friday, July 7, 2017, Milwaukee, WI
Day 57

We visited City Hall, a Flemish Renaissance Revival structure built in 1895. It was the third tallest building in the U.S. at the time. Next we visited the Basilica of Saint Josaphat. Built in 1896-1901, the place is very ornate with lots of stained glass. Across the street we noticed El Salvador Pupuseria and we stopped for lunch. Good food and lots of it. Next we headed to SC Johnson for a tour of the Frank Lloyd Wright research tower and administration buildings in Racine. The tower is a 15 story cantilevered building supported entirely by the center core which contains a very small spiral staircase and elevator in the center. The building leaked as did mnost of Wrights buildings and it was so bright that researchers sometimes wore sunglasses inside. The building was shut down in 1982 as current fire code required a second exit and this building has but one. We were able to view the third and fourth levels and the building seems like every space is very tight. Not a practical place at all. On the other hand, the administration building does seem fairly practical and it is still in use today.  Wright was retained by H.F. Johnson, Jr. Wright also designed H. F. Johnson’s residence known as “Wingspread”. When Johnson was entertaining guests, the house began leaking over Johnson and his guests. When Johnson called Wright to inform him of the leaks, Wright’s response was to tell Johnson to move his chair! Before we departed Racine, we had to stop at O H Danish Bakery for pick up a “Kringle”. Ours was an almond macaroon. Kringles are very large and will easily last 3 or more servings for the 3 of us. Back in Milwaukee, we walkd downtown and the Historic Third Ward and picked up some lox and hot smoked salmon for dinner at St. Paul Fish Company in the Public Market.