Day 50, May 21, 2019, Tuesday. Port Angeles, WA (55 miles)
Departed Port Townsend and headed to Port Angeles, WA, where the Olympic National Park visitor center for the northeast part of the park is located. At the visitor center we learn what is open and what is not and plan our visit to the park. After checking into the Elwha Dam RV Park (50amp fhu) we headed west on highway 101. A really beautiful drive especially along the edge of Lake Crescent. First stop was at a short hike to the Madison Creek Waterfall. Next stop was a 1.5 mile hike to the Marymere Falls. Then a drive to the Sol Duc Hot Springs where the water is a constant 98 degrees. A few miles before the hot springs was the Salmon Cascades. Although we were too early for the salmon to be swimming upstream to spawn, the roaring river was beautiful. The hot springs were disappointing in that there were a few concrete swimming pools that basically serve as big hot tubs. Given the cool air temp and that the pools where all in the shade of the mountains we passed on a dip. Unfortunately, the trail bridge to the Sol Duc Falls was washed out and the falls were not accessible. Back to Port Angeles where we had a wonderful dinner at Sabai Thai. Choo Chee Talay included a whole lot of seafood - mussels, clams, squid, shrimp, scallops and fish - and was delicious as was the green curry.
Day 49, May 20, 2019, Monday. Port Townsend, WA (99 miles)
We arrived in Port Townsend, WA, and checked into the Jefferson County Fairgrounds which has rv sites with fhu 30 amp for a bargain rate of $25. Port Townsend is located at the northeastern tip of the Olympic Peninsula. The entire town is a “gem” per AAA as it contains an historical downtown with some 3 dozen buildings dating from the mid to late 1800's. We took a driving tour of all the historic buildings as there was a steady rain all day. We ended up with a brief walk downtown before arriving at the Port Townsend Winery tasting room. It being Monday, we were the only customers for what seemed like a couple hours. Our host, a gal named Tuesday, was generous with the pours and we had much conversation in addition to the wine. We bought a Sangiovese which was very good as were all the wines sampled.
Day 48, May 19, 2019, Sunday. Lacey, WA (Olympia, WA) (124 miles)
We departed Oregon and arrived in Olympia, the capital of Washington. We took a tour of the Capitol Building. It was much more ornate than the Oregon Capitol which is all due to the timing. Washington’s was the last domed state capitol as it was built 1922-1928, just prior to the great recession. Oregon’s was built 1935-1938, during the great depression. Right across from the Capitol was the Temple of Justice which houses the Washington Supreme Court. We walked around downtown and on the boardwalk along the Budd Inlet waterfront. We made a brief stop at Sofie’s Scoops for gelato, cardamon and banana chocolate chip. We also hiked around the Priest Point Park which had some pretty views along the water. Spent the night at the Lacey Walmart.
Day 47, May 18, 2019, Saturday. Fairview, OR (Portland, OR)
An early start for us and we arrived at Henry Higgins Bagels to get Rosemary her sesame bagels as it had been awhile since we were in a big city to replenish her supply. Unfortunately, 9:30 was not early enough as there were only 4 sesame bagels left. We took those 4 and some others to make a baker’s dozen. We continued to downtown Portland and stopped at the Oregon Historical Society Museum not to go in but to view the eight story Richard Hass murals on the building’s exterior. The mural really tricks the eye into believing there is relief when the wall is flat. Next we attended the Portland Saturday Market which had lots of artsy stuff but not much farm products. Next stop was Creo Chocolate, handcrafted chocolate maker. With numerous samples of different chocolates, this spot is a must. Rosemary had a cup of brewed cacao where the cacao beans are ground and brewed just like coffee beans are. It was interesting because it is not sweet as it contains no sugar until one chooses to add some. Me, I had a decadent hot chocolate. We bought a 73% chocolate bar as well to take home. We had a nice conversation with the owner, Janet. In the afternoon, we visited the gardens of the Pittock Mansion and enjoyed the overlook of Portland and the snow capped Mount Hood in the not so distant background.
Day 46, May 17, 2019, Friday. Fairview, OR (Portland, OR) (5 miles)
We checked into the Portland Fairview RV Resort (fhu 50 amp) and then headed into Portland. Our first stop was Washington Park, located on a hill just west of downtown Portland. Within the park is the International Rose Test Garden. To our somewhat surprise the roses had not yet bloomed. We saw a few roses and a lot of rose buds but the weather is cold and we were a couple weeks early. However, the rhododendrons were in spectacular bloom. Next within the park, we visited the Portland Japanese Garden. We have been to many Japanese Gardens but this one was the best. Very large, different levels, peaceful, and just beautiful. We then visited Lan Su Chinese Garden in downtown Portland. An urban garden in the Ming Dynasty style with stone paths through courtyards and nine pavilions. One pavilion contained the Tao of Tea at which we had a Velour Puer tea and Tuocha Puer tea served gaiwan style. We also had a mung bean mooncake. After 5 steepings we were totally relaxed which I believe is one of the purposes of a tea room. Dinner at Frank’s Noodle House featuring hand-pulled noodles was excellent.
We had the morning still in Silver Falls State Park as check out is not until 1:00 pm. In a light rain, we visited the North Falls (136 feet) which included a large deep path behind the falls which created a deafening roar. We then hiked to the Upper North Falls (65 feet). We then departed the park and headed to Sandy Riverfront RV Resort (fhu 50 amp) in Troutdale, OR, in the Columbia River Gorge area. After check in we drove the car along the Historic Columbia River Highway (Old Highway 30) which led us to numerous waterfalls along the highway, each more beautiful than the next. Some required short hikes but most right along the highway. We stopped at the Crown Point Vista House which provided a view of the river and gorge from an elevated overlook. The waterfalls culminated with Multnomah Falls, a two tiered falls of 620 feet with a pedestrian bridge part way up. These falls are widely pictured on Oregon literature. Fortunately, the path leading to the top of the falls was closed due to a landslide saving us a hike up 600 feet! We ended up at the Bonneville Fish Hatchery which raises sturgeon and rainbow trout.
Day 44, May 15, 2019, Wednesday. Silver Falls State Park, OR (48 miles)
After a 5 minute walk across the parking lot, we arrived at the 9 am opening of the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum. Our first task was to go inside the Hughes Flying Boat better known as the Spruce Goose. The plane is huge and like the sequoias, it cannot be fully captured in a photograph. The plane is made entirely of wood, laminated birch, and has the largest wingspan of any airplane. In the process of building it, it was held together with glue and tacks but when fully dried, the tacks, weighing in at 16,000 lbs., were removed. It was funded by 18 million dollars of federal funds and 7 million from the Hughs Aircraft Co. It flew only once, with Howard Hughes piloting it. On a taxi test Hughes took off unauthorized reaching an altitude of only 70 feet for a mile. Our tax money at work! Many other aircraft including some original and some replicas. A separate building houses the space museum which was very well done. I even learned a few things about the Soviet space program. The Soviet cosmonauts actually ejected before their space craft landed on the hard ground which may have been injurious to them if they had not. A rule about flying records is that the pilot and aircraft must land together so this procedure was kept secret by the Soviets. We departed around 1:00 and headed to the Silver Falls State Park campground. As soon as we pulled into our site (30 amp e/w), the rain came down. Not discouraged, Rosemary got her raincoat on and with our umbrellas we hiked to the South Falls (177 feet), the Canyon Trail to the Lower South Falls (93 feet) and our return trip on the 400 foot elevation gain Maple Ridge Trail. Total distance about 2.6 miles. Both of these waterfalls were beautiful and the trails went behind each waterfall. With no cell reception or internet, it was a quiet night.
Our luck ran out today and the Pacific Northwest lived up to its rainy reputation. A forecast of rain extends to the next about 10 days. We visited Salem and took a tour of the State Capitol Building built in 1935 and took 3 years to complete. Its outside appearance is quite different than other capitols. Unlike California where an officer was standing guard outside the door to the Governor’s office, no apparent security for this Governor’s office. Sessions in odd years are 6 months and 1 month in even years. We walked around historic downtown Salem which had numerous old and interesting buildings. We came upon The Little Cannoli Bakery and I just had to go in. The cannoli shells are only filled to order and a choice of chocolate chips or pistachios on the ends. I choose one end chocolate chips and one end pistachios. We took the cannoli and a couple other goodies to go for dessert after dinner. We then headed to McMinnville, OR, home of the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum, a Harvest Hosts host. We were one of 9 RV’s parked in the back parking lot for the night. After dinner and the best cannoli I have ever had, we walked around the museum property which had numerous aircraft outside but 2 huge buildings housing many more inside, including the Spruce Goose. Can’t wait to go inside tomorrow.
We departed Prospect and arrived in Eugene in the early afternoon and checked into the Premier RV Resort in Coburg about 6 miles north of Eugene. First stop was the University of Oregon, Rosemary’s graduate school alma mater. We went to Straub Hall, which houses the psychology department, where Rosemary spent 3 years of her life over 40 years ago. Of course, the University had changed leading Rosemary to confirm you can’t go back again. After a drive up Skinner Butte which overlooks Eugene, we visited the 5th Street Market in downtown, a combo of office, retail and restaurants. Picked up some goodies (syrup and beer) at Made in Oregon. Dinner at Pho The Good Times Asian Bistro was good but the curry a bit too spicy.
The Northwest is gorgeous! I am glad you had good weather
ReplyDeleteYou will never eat Atlantic salmon again!
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