Day 6,  September 15, Monday, Londonderry, Northern Ireland

We departed Belfast and our first stop was the Dark Hedges.  This is a lane with big trees on either side covering the road.  Some of the trees have suffered storm damage and have been removed.  Basically a tourist trap but it was on our way to the Carrick-a-Rede coastal walk.  This is a walk along the coastal cliffs to a rope bridge about 70 feet long and 100 feet high above the Atlantic Ocean to the tiny island of Carrick-a-Rede.  The wind was whipping so I had to hold my hat in my hand and the bridge was swaying.  Rosemary declined to go on the bridge and stayed on the mainland taking photos of my crossing.  Once on the island there was a short hike labeled “treacherous” but after doing it I have been on more challenging hikes in my travels.  Of course the adrenalin was pumping and I would call Carrick-a-Rede a must do.  Our next stop was to Ballintoy Harbor for a beautiful coastal view of grass and rock covered mounds. Of course we were able to climb on them for the best views.  Our next stop was the Giant’s Causeway.  We took the Blue Hike which was along the shoreline.  It’s a very crowded tourist spot but we enjoyed climbing on the basalt columns.  We were making good time to Londonderry so we made an unscheduled stop at the Bushmill Distillery.  Bushmill claims to be the first whiskey maker as it was the first to be licensed to distill in Ireland.  However, they distilled perfume and did not begin distilling whiskey until after others were already making whiskey.  I had the 3 whiskey flight and enjoyed every last drop.  Next we stopped at the Dunluce Castle ruins.  This 17th century castle built right on a coastal cliff was occupied only until 1639 when half of its kitchen fell into the sea taking servants with it.  We also made another unscheduled stop at the Royal Portrush Golf Club, the site of this year’s British Open.  There were many very pricey items for sale in the gift shop.  We arrived in Londonderry and checked into the Shipquay Hotel.  Then we walked by the Guildhall Square and onto the Peace Bridge.  Londonderry being a walled city, we then walked along the top of the wall before a good dinner at our hotel.  

Day 7, September 16, Tuesday, Donegal, Ireland

We departed Londonderry and re-entered Ireland.  Our first stop was to Donegal Castle located right in the city center, a 15th century castle restored in the 1990's.  We caught a tour guide discussing the nine years war which started in 1595. It resulted in the elite Irish family of the castle being defeated and leaving the country.  Next we visited Studio Donegal Hand Weavers and watched woolen fabrics being made.  Onward to the Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) Cliffs, the highest marine cliffs in Europe.  The cliff face at Bunglas Point rises 600 metres (nearly 2,000 feet) above the ocean.  We hiked to the top on a sunny day with manageable wind.  The view was outstanding - a big adrenaline rush.  To help calm the rush, we stopped at The Rusty Mackerel where I had a Smithwicks Red Ale.  A stop along the way to see a waterfall before we checked into the Lough Eske Castle Hotel.  Dinner in the hotel Gallery Bar was very good.  I had the Traditional Shepherds Pie made with lamb not beef.  Rosemary had a margherita pizza which was definitely more than a one person serving.  I took the remaining slices for tomorrow’s lunch.

Day 8, September 17, Wednesday, Galway, Ireland

We departed Lough Eske Castle Hotel for an about 3 hour drive. We stopped in Westport for a break and walked around the city center for half an hour passing many shops.  Rosemary could not resist going into some shops and she purchased a red knit hat at John O’Brien which will now appear in photos of her.  We then continued on to Kylemore Abbey and Gardens.  We first visited the gardens since we had sunshine and one never knows how long that may last.  The gardens have a wide variety of plants and made for a lovely walk.  We then visited the Abbey which is a beautiful Victorian castle built in the 1860's by Mitchell Henry, a wealthy businessman and politician.  The Benedictine Nuns purchased the property in 1920 and continue to own it.  We listened to a guide explain the history of the castle and viewed several rooms.  Next we drove the Sky Loop Road, part of the Wild Atlantic Way.  We stopped at the viewpoint and the wind was at least tropical storm strength if not more.  We continued on to Galway and checked into Leonardo Hotel.  Dinner was at High Café, a Moroccan restaurant.  Rosemary and I shared an appetizer of hummus, an eggplant concoction and olives in a somewhat spicy sauce.  For a main course, we shared a sweet lamb tagine with a side of couscous.  The tagine included tender lamb pieces, onion confit, prunes, raisins, apricots, hard boiled eggs and roasted almonds.  It came to our table bubbling hot.  It was delicious and the helping was so huge we could not quite finish it.  After dinner we walked along a pedestrian street loaded with shops, bars and restaurants.  

Day 9, September 18, Thursday, Galway, Ireland

A busy day began at the Hazel Mountain Chocolate factory which actually makes its own chocolate from imported cocoa beans.  We got samples of the milk chocolate (42%) and the dark chocolate (70%) both of which were very good.  Next was a visit to the Portal Tomb believed to have been created between 4200-2900 BCE due to the excavation and study of the bodies buried at the tomb.  Next was a visit to the Caherconnell Stone Fort Sheepdog demonstration.  We saw 4 dogs control a herd of sheep upon receiving verbal commands and whistles.  A really fascinating show where each dog responded to its name and its own series of whistle combinations.  Next was a visit to the Aillwee Burren Experience.  The Burren had a cave tour which had an underground waterfall, a Farmshop where they made cheeses and fudge and offered many samples, and a birds of prey exhibition.  A crested caracara came and landed on the bench next to me so I got a pretty good view of the bird.  Next was the Cliffs of Moher, a big Ireland attraction and the gigantic crowd proved it.  We walked to the O’Brien Tower and climbed the spiral staircase to the top but the view from the top was not the best.  We did have very good views walking along the cliff path but the weather was cold, windy and rainy.  We headed back to Galway along the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road. The scenery along the way was beautiful.  We stopped at the Pinnacle Well which was a small spring and we filled up a water bottle to sample the fresh clean water.  Dinner back at our hotel was Guinness Beef Stew downed by a Smithwicks red ale.

Day 10, September 19, Friday, Clare, Ireland

We departed Galway and continued our southward journey to the Dromoland Castle where we were to spend the night.  We checked in and then drove to the Bunratty Castle and Folk Park about 15 minutes away.  Each corner of the Bunratty Castle has a small circular staircase leading to another room and/or the roof making it small but tall.  The folk part was several buildings of various types such as a school, doctor’s office, blacksmith and a bar.  The bar had samples of whiskey of which we took part.  Back at Dromoland Castle, we had high tea at 3:00 which included small sandwiches and numerous desserts in addition to tea.  Service was excellent and by 5:00 we were all stuffed.  No dinner necessary tonight.  After dinner we walked the Walled Garden and part of the golf course to the castle viewing point.  A fun and relaxing day (maybe a first on this trip). 

Day 11, September 20, Saturday, Dingle, Ireland

A little later wake up than usual was welcome as was the Castle’s breakfast.  I had the mixed pulse shakshuka which was delicious with a medium spiciness and a pleasant break from the usual buffet stuff.  After a brief stop in the small town of Adare, we continued onward to Dingle via the Conor Pass. Conor Pass is a mostly one lane road through mountains with severe drop offs down the mountains to the valleys below.  We did make a stop at one viewpoint with amazing views.  We arrived at Dingle Skellig Hotel and checked in.  Then we began the Slea Head Loop Drive, about a 30 mile loop around the Dingle peninsula, part of the Wild Atlantic Way.  We stopped at a place which had several original famine dwellings from the 1800's in addition to a sheep farm.  There was also an ancient beehive hut which is a stone dwelling dated from the 8th through the 12th centuries.  We were given sheep treats to feed the sheep and there was one aggressive goat that actually pushed several sheep out of the way while I was feeding them.  Another aggressive sheep jumped up on me several times.  All in all it was a fun activity since I am such an animal lover.  That was sarcasm for those in doubt.  The loop road was supposed to be a one way road but many tourists did not get the message.  So there were many car passes that barely fit the one lane road.  We stopped at a few viewpoints.  Unfortunately, it was a rainy day and the visibility was not the best.  We also stopped at the Gallarus Oratory, a small chapel built around the 7th or 8th century.  Back to Dingle and dinner at John Benny’s Pub.  I finally had the fish and chips for the first time on this trip.  Rosemary had the fish pie.  The food was very good and I washed it down with a pint of Beoir Rua red ale (an Irish brew from Kerry that was better than the Smithwicks).

Day 12, September 21, Sunday, Killarney, Ireland

We departed Dingle and on our way to Killarney we stopped at the Inch Beach.  It was low tide with a sandy shoreline.  It was also the first time we saw any coast line that was not rocky or a cliff.  Next we went on a jaunting horse and carriage ride from our hotel, Great Southern Hotel, into the Killarney National Park.  The carriage stopped at the Ross Castle which had an exhibit about its history dating from the 15th century.  We next visited the Muckross Abbey ruins, a Franciscan friary from the 15th century.  I found the ruins fascinating especially with a tree growing within its walls with a spiral bark on the trunk.  Then we visited the Muckross House and Gardens.  A Victorian mansion built from 1839 to 1843.  It hosted Queen Victoria in 1861.  We drove a portion of the Ring of Kerry to the Torc Waterfall and the Ladies Viewpoint.  Dinner at Murphy’s Bar where I had the beef and Guinness stew.  Rosemary had the seafood chowder.  After dinner we saw the Gaelic Roots show which had fantastic dancing and songs but the music was very loud. 

Day 13, September 22, Monday, Killarney, Ireland

Today we did the Ring of Kerry via Killarney to Kenmare.  Our first stop was to Uragh Stone Circle on the Beara Peninsula.  The stone circle is a ritual site dated 4000 years ago.  Next we stopped at the Staigue Stone Fort thought to date from 300 to 400 AD.  I could not resist walking the entire top of the wall despite the rather rough “stairs” to the top.  On our way to the Skellig’s Chocolate Factory, we stopped to admire another fantastic viewpoint.  Skellig’s Chocolate Factory make their own chocolate with beans from the Ivory Coast.  We had 7 or 8 samples provided generously and amazingly, Rosemary and I agreed on the best one, an Irish Whiskey chocolate that was 60% dark chocolate.  So after gorging on chocolate samples, I had a hot chocolate and Rosemary had a tea (a treat offered by our driver guide Noel).  We bought a box of the Irish Whiskey dark chocolate to enjoy on the rest of our trip.  The next stop was the Kerry Cliffs, a spectacular cliff landscape.  Our photos assuredly do not do it justice.  This spot alone was worth the trip.  Next we crossed the bridge to Valentia Island and stopped at the site of the first telegraph received from the USA in 1866.  The first reply was supposed to be Queen Victoria but an Irish worker replied with a Catholic verse and thereafter was never heard from again.  Queen Victoria, a non-Catholic, was relegated to the second reply.   After admiring more of the coastal view, we took the ferry back to the mainland and headed back to Killarney.  We had dinner at Kitty O’Se where I had the assorted fish Thai curry and Rosemary had grilled salmon.  Food was good.  An after dinner walk around Killarney city center concluded a long, busy but spectacular day.