Day 34, April 5, 2023, Wednesday. Page, AZ

On our last day in Page, we drove to Lee’s Ferry, a part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, about 45 minutes south on the Marble Canyon Loop, Highway 89A.  A man named Lee operated a ferry to cross the Colorado River until the Navajo Bridge was built. This is the only area today that you can get to river level for quite some distance. Other sites we visited in the area were Paria Beach, a sandy area where the Paria River ends and flows into the Colorado River, the Balanced Rock and a ranch and orchard operated initially by the Lee family. We hiked the Cathedral Wash, a strenuous 3 mile out and back hike along a dry riverbed. The hike required some rock climbing but we came upon an area where we determined it was too difficult to get down and then very improbable that we could get back up. So we took another offshoot of the wash which fortunately lead us back to the road a short distance from the parking area. 

Day 35, April 6, 2023, Thursday. Flagstaff, AZ (147 miles) (elevation 6,925)

After a 4 night stay, we departed Page and headed south to Flagstaff, AZ. On the way we came upon a sign to Wupatki National Monument and decided to go. A nice parking spot at the entrance sign allowed us to have lunch. Afterward we drove the coach into the park and stopped for several hikes where we saw the Box Canyon dwellings, the Lomaki Pueblo and the Citadel Pueblo. The Citadel was the remains of Native American pueblo on top of a rather high hill offering a great view of the surrounding area.  Onward to the visitor center and a hike around the Wupakti Pueblo. These Pueblos were occupied by thousands of natives in the 1100's to 1200's at a time that the Sunset Crater Volcano was erupting. Initially, the eruption improved farming because the thin ash layer absorbed moisture and helped prevent evaporation.  By 1250 the Wupakti people had moved on.  We continued on the 35 mile loop road and passed Sunset Crater.  We stopped for a photo but not a hike as we had made that hike on our 2015 trip. We checked into Black Bart’s RV Park (FHU 50 amp) just in time for dinner. 

Day 36, April 7, 2023, Friday. Flagstaff, AZ 

Our first stop was to the Visitor Center in historic downtown Flagstaff. We walked around a bit and stopped at Olive the Best and purchased some peach white balsamic vinegar one of Rosemary’s variable ingredients in her famous salad. We then visited the Riordan Mansion State Historic Park and had a guided tour. The mansion was built in 1904 for 2 brothers who owned and operated the local lumber company. It was built in the Arts and Crafts style architecture with a rustic log slab siding exterior, volcanic stone arches and hand split wooden shingles. The house was built with electricity, running water and central heating and ventilation. It was occupied by the family until 1985. It was an interesting visit. We ate dinner at Fat Olives where we each had a 12 inch pizza, Rosemary had a Margherita pizza, and I had a Di Fungi (mushrooms and onion). The cheese, Bufala Mozzarella, was imported from Italy and made with buffalo milk.  The pizza was delicious and there were no leftovers (I helped finish Rosemary’s).  I washed it all down with a Piehole Porter from Historic Brewing Company. After dinner, we went back to historic downtown where the April First Friday Artwalk was happening. 

Day 37, April 8, 2023, Saturday. Flagstaff, AZ 

Today we decided to hike the Devil’s Bridge Trail I Sedona. This required a 45 minute scenic drive along Highway 89A with a drop in elevation of about 2,500 feet.  Many switchbacks meant no vehicles with a combined length over 40 so not a drive for our coach. We parked in Sedona and took the free Sedona Shuttle to the Mescal Trailhead. Our route was .4 miles on Mescal Trail, 1.0 mile o the Chuckwagon Trail and another mile on the Devil’s Bridge Trail.  Although the temp was in the 70's, we were a bit surprised that the weather seemed hot since we have been freezing the last several weeks. The total 4.8 mile hike was rated moderate.  To our surprise, about 5 minutes into the hike we had to make a water crossing due to snow melt.  Off went the shoes and socks and we rolled up the pants.  The water was refreshing for a few seconds and then became painful due to the cold. We found a good spot to eat our picnic lunch just before we got to the Devil’s Bridge.  Once we reached the lower viewpoint we were frustrated that you could not see the bridge.  To get to the upper viewpoint, ie. the bridge, required some serious rock climbing that Rosemary declined to attempt. I climbed to the upper viewpoint and found the place was mobbed. A long line of people were waiting their turn to go onto the bridge for their photo opportunity. But even that view was not very good as the view beneath the bridge was all trees and rocks so the photos would not show the bridge clearly.  I had no interest in waiting in line nor did I think it was such a good idea to walk onto the 5 foot wide rock with a death defying drop should one stumble.  I  did manage to take photos of Rosemary at the lower viewpoint. Then,  amazingly with cell service, I called her to take my photo.  She found me after I waved vigorously and took my photo. Look carefully at the photos to see us. We walked back quite disappointed. I felt betrayed by the publicity photos which certainly not taken at the available trail viewpoints.  I guess all our outings can’t be homeruns.

Day 38, April 9, 2023, Sunday. Cornville, AZ (Sedona) (64 miles) (elevation 3,850)

After another freezing night, we departed Flagstaff but first we filled up with propane 3 minutes away at U-haul to make sure we would have enough for night heating. Desiring to spend more time in Sedona, the closest campground we found was Page Springs RV Park in Cornville (FHU 30 amp, very poor water pressure).  It is 14 miles, about 20 minutes, from Sedona. Within the last 5 minutes of our drive we passed 4 wineries. We knew the campground had no WiFi, but what we did not know was that there was no cell signal either. So we were completely off the grid and that included no Google maps. The paper maps came in handy. Another surprise, it was hot!  First time in weeks we ran the a/c. After lunch we visited the DA Ranch Winery just minutes away.  The DA stands for “Dancing Apache.” We tasted a flight of 5 wines which were all blends of the estate vineyards. The wines were good but do not justify the $59/bottle price. Next we drove to Historic Cottonwood but most places were closed for Easter. So we visited Alcantara Vineyards in Camp Verde. We had a flight of 4 wines. The wines were good and with a live musician and a shaded patio it was a very relaxing visit - and in short pants! 

Day 39, April 10, 2023, Monday. Cornville, AZ (Sedona)

A sunny day with temps expected to be in the mid 80's, we chose to hike in the morning ad started with Montezuma Castle National Monument.  The Native Americans built this 5 story, 20 room dwelling between 1100 and 1300 in a cliff recess 100 feet above the valley.  Early settlers assumed it was Aztec in origin and thus the name. However, Montezuma had nothing to do with it. A little bit west is another 5 story multi-room dwelling which is now badly deteriorated.  Our next stop was to Montezuma Well National Monument, 11 miles northeast of Montezuma Castle. It is a limestone sink formed long ago and fed by continuous flowing springs.  It’s like a lake in the desert. The water however contains arsenic so no fish are able to survive I it. However, there are 7 creatures that live within the well that can be found  no where else. From a microscopic shrimp to the top of the food chain, leeches. The well has a crack which allows water to flow outside and into Wet Beaver Creek. This poisonous water was able to be used for irrigation as the stalks and leaves soaked up the arsenic leaving the fruit edible. I meant to but forgot to ask the ranger how the natives determined there was arsenic in the water.  After lunch we headed to Sedona to walk around the shops. We had boba teas at Sono Kitchen. Rosemary found a tee shirt with kokopelli on it.  Dinner at Szechuan Restaurant was so good we may go there again tomorrow.

Day 40, April 11, 2023, Tuesday. Cornville, AZ (Sedona)

We began the morning with a trip to the Red Rock State Park, a 286 nature preserve.  This is a hiking park and so we did. We hiked the Kisva trail to the Apache Fire trail to the Coyote Ridge trail to the Eagles Nest trail. A moderate hike with a 300 foot elevation gain to the top of a ridge offering a spectacular expansive view of the red rocks surrounding Sedona, including Cathedral Rock. We saw hummingbirds and a mule deer. After about 3 hours of hiking in the sunny, mid-85 degree weather, we decided not to hike in the afternoon. After lunch on the coach, we drove the Red Rock Loop Road which again offered great views including a different angle of Cathedral Rock. Next we visited the Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village (pronounced ta-la-ka-pa-kee, meaning “the best of everything”). Built in 1973 and modeled after a traditional Mexican Village it contained some 50 galleries and shops. The art was beautiful, and expensive.  Next we drove the Red Rock Scenic Drive south to the Village of Oak Creek.  There were many beautiful scenic overlooks and we stopped at every one.  This was late in the day and the sun really lit up the red rocks including Bell Rock and Courthouse Bluff. (Yes, it seems that every rock has a name!) On the way back, we spotted 4 javelinas.  We quickly pulled over and managed to get a photo of 2 of them before they disappeared.  Dinner was at Szechuan Restaurant for the second night in a row.  This time we had sushi and it was very good.

Day 41, April 12, 2023, Wednesday. Winslow, AZ (138 miles) (elevation 4,852 feet)

We departed Page Springs RV Campground heading west when we want to go east due to the campground’s extreme sharp turn exit to the east. (We had also come from the east and had to detach the car and drive 2 miles beyond the campground to enter when we arrived).  Heading west added about 8 miles to our trip.  We passed by Flagstaff and stopped to buy sesame bagels for Rosemary. Unfortunately, it turned out that Einstein Bagels is on the campus of North Arizona University. We drove around campus in the coach pulling the car, and Google was as lost as we were.  I think we ended up on a pedestrian walkway after one turn. We kept going behind the pedestrians since there was no other option. Never did find Einstein’s.  Next we tried another bagel shop. This one turned out to be in Historic Downtown, again not the best place for driving the coach. Found a “parking spot” a block away and Rosemary walked to the shop. Alas, all sesame bagels were sold out.  We headed onward to Winslow and checked into Soaring Eagle RV Park. Not too attractive but good facilities and WiFi! In fact, Winslow is not too attractive. Afternoon spent cleaning the coach, laundry and blogging. We did visit the Standing on the Corner Roadside Attraction as did many others while we were there.